We did some multi-pitch rock climbing at Sebastopol Bluffs on the Saturday afternoon as a bit of a warm-up for three-person, two-rope climbing techniques (though it was a lot of fun in itself). On Sunday evening we flew in to Plateau Hut at 2,200 m and went to bed hoping for a freeze.
We actually got one and at 3 am we got up to climb Mt Dixon.

Working our way through the glacier to the start of our climb actually turned out to be more intricate than we'd expectedWe did 3 pitches up a snow/ice gully with rock steps onto the crest of the ridge, and a further short ice gully pitch at a step just below the summit. Apart from the strong winds on top (which meant we had to crab our way along, or at best walk very hunched over) the rest was reasonably straightforward and the descent of the East Ridge was quite quick in soft snow.
After a rest day (when there wasn't a decent freeze anyway) we got up at midnight to climb Cook via the Linda Glacier. We didn't get a lot of sleep the night before - due to nervousness, and the fact that we were only in bed for 2 1/2 hours!
Sunrise on the summit rocks
The start of the summit rocks
Past the summit rocks, just the icecap to go. I started to feel the altitude at this point (3,500 m)
Teichelmann's Corner in the Linda Glacier. It was so soft coming down that I frequently sunk up to my groin and sometimes had to dig my foot out. The only way you could tell if you'd fallen into a hidden crevasse was to look for a bottomless hole where your foot had been once you'd pulled it out.
Fallen into a crevasse or just sunk into deep snow? He probably doesn't know either. All up it took us 16.5 hours, not bad considering the soft conditions on the way back.


















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